Perugia, the capital of Umbria—Italy’s central region known as its “green heart”—is one of the country’s best-preserved medieval cities. Founded by the Etruscans (a pre-Roman civilization), it grew into one of Europe’s most important textile hubs during the Middle Ages, exporting embroidered fabrics to royal courts across the continent. But everything changed in the 1500s when the people of Perugia revolted against the pope’s salt tax. As punishment, the pope banned them from selling their textiles, plunging the city into poverty.
“We were forgotten from the 1500s until Italy’s unification,” explains Marta Cucchia, who runs Atelier Giuditta Brozzetti, a textile workshop her great-grandmother founded nearly a century ago. “The city’s medieval walls remain intact because we missed out on the Baroque era and other developments. We were frozen in 1540 and stayed that way until Italy unified. Now, we have a perfectly authentic medieval city—which is actually an advantage.”
What else is Perugia famous for? Chocolate. Perugina Baci are its most iconic treats, but the city is packed with chocolate shops and artisan makers. Yet despite its charm, it’s still off the tourist radar.
“I find it’s not well known, which is good in a way—there’s no mass tourism. It’s stayed authentic,” says Cucchia, whom I met on my first trip. During my latest visit, I returned to her atelier for local tips. Below, find the best hotels, things to do, shopping spots, restaurants, and the ideal time to visit this enchanting city—one of my top picks in Italy.
Best Hotels & Resorts
Sina Brufani
The city’s grand dame, opened in 1884, feels like stepping into a time capsule. Rooms are filled with antiques and oil paintings, while Collins’ Restaurant offers Umbrian dishes in a formal, wood-paneled room (complete with a telephone booth outside). The indoor pool even has a glass floor revealing Etruscan ruins below.
Borgo dei Conti Resort
A Relais & Châteaux property 30 minutes from Perugia, recently renovated with care. Originally a 19th-century villa, it has two restaurants, a spa, an outdoor pool, a cinema, and a 50-acre park to explore. Some rooms feature wood-beamed ceilings, others original frescoes.
Castello di Reschio
A thousand-year-old castle on a 3,700-acre estate, 45 minutes from Perugia. Owned and designed by a count, the hotel blends bespoke furniture with antiques from Italian markets. The underground spa is a standout.
Vocabolo Moscatelli
A Design Hotels member set in a 12th-century monastery, 45 minutes from Perugia. It mixes contemporary art, modern furnishings, and original stone walls. The restaurant offers creative global flavors with hyper-local ingredients, even veggies from its own garden.
Best Things to Do
Admire medieval art at Galleria Nazionale dell’Umbria
“This museum holds a special place in my heart—it has original 14th- and 15th-century tablecloths,” says Cucchia. Housed in Palazzo dei Priori, it’s a treasure trove of medieval art. “A must-visit to understand the city’s history.”
See textile-making at Museo Atelier Giuditta Brozzetti
Founded in the 1920s in a deconsecrated church, this atelier helped local women earn a living through weaving. Today, it’s one of the last places using antique looms for traditional Umbrian textiles. Book a tour to see the process and buy (or commission) a piece.
Learn about stained glass at Studio Moretti Caselli
A 19th-century family workshop that’s crafted stained glass for churches and homes. “It has one of Umbria’s most beautiful works—a life-size window of Queen Margherita,” says Cucchia. “I could stare at it for hours.” Now a museum, visits are by appointment.
Get lost around Piazza IV Novembre
“On Sundays, I wander the narrow lanes and discover incredible things,” Cucchia shares. “Once, I found an old terracotta factory with the owner’s house still full of pieces. Even after 50 years, I still uncover new secrets.”
Best Shopping
Materia Ceramica
Artisan Maria Antonietta Taticchi hand-paints ceramics here—plates, bowls, lamps—depicting Umbrian landscapes. She trained in Deruta, a nearby pottery hub.
Cioccolateria Gelateria Augusta Perusia
An artisan chocolate shop with pralines, truffles, and bars. Enjoy gelato or thick hot chocolate inside, then take home a box of treats.
Best Nightlife
Priori Secret Garden
A rooftop bar atop a four-star hotel, perfect for aperitivo or evening drinks. “Nicely renovated with vintage furniture,” says Cucchia.
Punto di Vista
A casual spot with a “marvelous view of the plains leading to Assisi,” ideal for sunset drinks.
Best Restaurants
Osteria a Priori
“Focused on slow food, using local ingredients like lake beans and Casteluccio lentils,” says Cucchia. “I always take visitors here—the food is guaranteed to be great.”
Ristorante Il Giurista
A cozy spot with brick vaults, serving Umbrian classics like Norcia prosciutto and wild boar pasta. Their black truffle menu pairs perfectly with Sagrantino di Montefalco wine.
Bottega del Vino
“Great location near the cathedral, with fresh cuisine and rivers of wine,” Cucchia raves. “They also have live music—my favorite for a night out.”
Pasticceria Sandri
Open since 1860, this historic café has frescoed ceilings, Art Nouveau counters, and cases of pastries. Sip espresso at the bar or grab chocolates to go.
Best Time to Visit
“September is lovely, but November is my favorite—crisp air and stunning sunsets with orange skies against black tree silhouettes,” says Cucchia.
Big events include Umbria Jazz Festival (July) and EuroChocolate Festival (fall).
How to Get There
The closest airport is San Francesco d’Assisi, but most U.S. travelers fly into Rome or Florence, then take a train or drive (2–3 hours).
Getting Around
The historic center is walkable but hilly—wear comfy shoes. Cars must park outside the old walls.
- Minimetrò & Buses – Connects the center to key spots. Tickets: €1.50 (valid 70 mins).
- Taxis – Fixed rate of €35 from the airport (extra for luggage). Use the itTaxi app or call +39.075.5004888.
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